When looking to shorten trousers, many customers assume it's a simple cut, fold in and stitch technique they should expect from a dressmaker. That can't be further from the truth!
In most cases it is possible to replicate the original hem on the trousers you have.
If you are creative, you can change the hem if possible (always consult with the alteration specialist you are dealing with). This will depend on the type of trousers and type of fabric they are made of.
In casual wear, a singe fold with the edge of the fabric overlocked, with a hem stitch visible on the outside, is the most common. You can play with this if you want, and use a contrasting colour thread for the stitch.
A double fold hem is when the edge of the fabric is folded twice to encase it. It is common in formal trousers and dress pants.
A blind hem is when the hem is invisible on the outside, which can be done by specialised machinery or by hand. This is common in suit trousers, formal wear and high end garments.
A cuffed hem - the fabric is folded to create a cuff and then stitched in place. Used often in high end jeans, made with selvedge denim and sometimes in tailored suit trousers.
A faced hem is when separate piece of fabric are sewn to the edge of a trouser leg, folded in and stitched. This creates a clean finish and can add extra weight to the fabric if needed.
A taped hem is when tape or a ribbon is stitched to the hem on the inside for reinforcement and a clean finish.
An elastic hem is common in joggers and sweatpants, and it creates a snug finish at the ankle.
